getting side tracked and my wires crossed.

Intro

During my window fixing escapades I was sat, with a cup of tea, reading what other people had done with a similar problem.
Well this didn't take long as it happened as most peoples experience was subtly different from the last. So I just kept digging to see if I could find anything relevant else where.

As the windows on my 2007 van are controlled by the comfort and convenience unit (CCU), I was also playing particular attention to anything else that went through the same box. So here I was reading a central locking blog. For once everyone was unified in agreement. It was caused by one crimp on a wire coming out of the module and it went wrong ALL THE TIME!
"Interesting" I thought to myself. As it happened I had my CCU on my desk so already had access to the offending part of the loom and was quite frankly out of ideas with the windows before I had to start buying parts. So what harm could a little win do?

Symptom

The usual reason for you to start this on your van is if your central locking were to pack in. Your indicators become stuck on is also something that is reported allot along with alarm issues.

Investigation

The CCU is located under the drivers seat on most T5 Transporter models, on the left side, bolted to a little cradle.
For access I found I was perfectly happy lying on the floor and getting to it via the gap in the seat base but if you read my reference blog, people have ripped the seat out and all sorts!
If you must work from the top (It is a bit easier), you can get away with sliding the seat forward and adjusting the back rest forward. This gives you a gap big enough to work in even with the thickest of forearms.

You can leave the CCU in place, I had removed mine for other reasons, but if you wish to it is only held in by two spline drive screws. Otherwise just remove the two plugs so the loom is easier to work with.

The loom passes through a hole in the carpet that opens up to a fairly large flap. As the loom disappears inboard, the tape starts to thin out to a sparse spiral wrap. The tape width also changes and that's the end on the heavier taping that you need to start removing.
I chose to reuse the old tape so simply unwound it from the floor up for about 15cm. Shortly after freeing a tributary of the loom there is a bulge in the loom, this is the crimp you are looking for.
As I unwound mine, a fine green powder began to pour out of the tape and unsurprisingly I was greeted by this.

Allot of people say the solder had corroded off completely. Not the case. VW opted to crimp these wires together rather than solder them.
I'm sure this saves them at least 1p per loom manufactured but what is more baffling is that one of the wires doesn't even go anywhere! 
Yes true story, one of the wires heading down the loom is only 5cm long and taped off at the end.
It is clearly for an option never fitted to my van (or most Transporters for that matter) but begs the question of why bother with it in the first place?

The fix

At first I was just going to solder it but as I was going to suffer loss of wire length I oped to crimp on some Japanese bullet connectors that I had in my shed from the bikes. They are fairly cheap and with their boots, fairly well protected. 

As you can see it leaves a fairly tidy job. A double connector could be used if you wanted to retain the second wire or you could feed both into one bullet connector, up to you. I opted to just bin it as it served no purpose to me.
The result for me was that everything worked just the same as it did before but I am now safe in the knowlege that a future problem has been avoided.